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Thrown in Andretta

Andretta, Kangra, Himachal Pradesh

Thrown in Andretta

Two potters, one kick wheel and a wood kiln behind the house. Six firings a year; this is what is left from the last.

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4.8 from 5 reviews

Next firing

5 dic

7 pieces left to reserve

Da ₹1,400

The shelf

Out of the last firing

  • Chai cups, set of four

    Thrown thin, no handle, the way chai is drunk here: four cups, the blue glaze inside and the red clay bare outside. One set from one…

    ₹1,400 from ₹400 holds one · 5 left

    Reserve
  • Serving bowl, 28 cm

    A wide bowl for the table in the celadon that runs to rust where the ash fell. Oven-safe; goes from the kiln to the dal without…

    ₹3,200 ₹1,000 holds one · 2 left

    Reserve
  • Water jug

    A litre and a half, a pulled lip that pours clean, the glaze gone silver and copper where the flame touched it. No two from a…

    ₹2,600 1 left

    Buy
  • Tea set, one firing

    Two teapots, a jug, bowls and cups from one shelf of one firing, so the glaze matches across the set. There is one; the next is…

    ₹9,800 Sold out · next firing

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The firing

Two days of stoking, a day of cooling

The clay is dug from a bank of the Neugal below the village, dried, slaked and sieved twice, then wedged by foot on the workshop floor until there is no air in it. A bag of clay is a month of that before it is a bag of anything.

Mohan throws on a kick wheel: no motor, the weight of the flywheel and the leg. A chai cup is a minute; a serving bowl is a morning, because it is thrown, left to stiffen, and trimmed on the wheel the next day so the foot is thin.

The glazes are Leela's. Celadon from iron and the ash of the kiln's own wood; tenmoku from more iron and a hotter shelf. Every piece is bisqued first, glazed by dipping, and fired to 1,250 degrees over two days of stoking. The kiln cools for a day. Opening it is the morning the whole village drops by for.

From the box of straw

What they wrote back

We visited the workshop on a Sunday and watched Mohan throw the bowl we later bought. It arrived in Delhi in a box of straw, whole.
Kavita S. Delhi
The chai cups are the thing I use most from the whole trip. Thin, warm, the right size.
James W. Edinburgh
Honest people. The tea set was gone, they said so, and told us when the next firing was. We went back for it.
Rohit and Anjali Chandigarh
The celadon is beautiful and the packing was careful. Shipping took the full week; worth knowing.
Hélène M. Lyon
Bought the jug at a café in Palampur, then drove to Andretta to see where it came from. Leela showed us the kiln.
Devendra P. Palampur

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THE POTTERS

Mohan learned to throw in Andretta in the eighties, in the workshop that made the village a potters' village, and Leela does the glazes, which she learned from the ash of the kiln itself. We built our own wood kiln behind the house in 2004 and have fired it about six times a year since: two days of stoking, a day of cooling, and a morning of opening it that we still find hard to sleep before. Everything here is made by the two of us and our apprentice Ritu. There is no second workshop and no wholesale; what is on this page is what came out of the last firing.

Andretta, Kangra, Himachal Pradesh

Andretta: the potters' village

Andretta is a village of artists in the Kangra valley below the Dhauladhar, a painter's and a playwright's houses and a pottery that taught most of the potters in the valley. The workshop is behind the gallery, the kiln behind the workshop, and Palampur and its tea gardens are twenty minutes down the road.

Andretta sits in the Kangra valley under the Dhauladhar, between Palampur and Baijnath. The painter Sobha Singh and the playwright Norah Richards made it a village of artists; the pottery that came after taught most of the potters in the valley. The workshop is behind the gallery, the kiln behind the workshop. Palampur and its tea gardens are twenty minutes down the road, Baijnath and its temple twenty the other way, and Dharamshala an hour up the valley.

Come raggiungerci

Come arrivare 3 ways in

Nearest airport
Gaggal (Kangra), 45 km, about an hour.
Nearest rail
Paprola on the Kangra narrow gauge, 8 km, or Pathankot on the broad gauge, 120 km.
By road
Delhi to Palampur is 480 km, ten to twelve hours on the overnight Volvo, then a taxi to Andretta in twenty minutes.

Drive in and park on the lane below the workshop.

Parcheggio

On the lane below the workshop

When to come

The workshop is open all year but Mondays. Firings are roughly every two months, with the two after the monsoon, in October and December, the largest; the week after a firing is when the most pieces are on the shelf. The afternoons at the wheel run from March to November.

Nearby

The Sobha Singh art gallery

The Sobha Singh art gallery

1 km
Heritage

The painter's house and gallery, five minutes' walk. Andretta became an artists' village because of him; the pottery followed.

Palampur and the tea gardens

Palampur and the tea gardens

13 km
Town

The nearest town, and the gardens that run along the road to it. The tea is Kangra tea, and it goes in our cups.

Baijnath temple

Baijnath temple

14 km
Heritage

The ninth-century Shiva temple at Baijnath, stone the same colour as our unglazed rims. Twenty minutes east.

Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj

45 km
Town

An hour up the valley: the Tibetan town, the monastery, the Norbulingka workshops where the thangkas and the woodwork are made.

Ask about a piece

A glaze, a set, the date of the next firing — write and we answer the same day. Scrivici su WhatsApp.

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